Prohibited & Restricted

How the Hotlist Connects to the Fragrance Allergen Lists

Why the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist and the new mandatory allergen lists are two separate checks that both apply to fragrance.

Diane R.4 min read

People conflate these two things constantly, and it's understandable since both involve a list, both involve fragrance, and both come from Health Canada. But the Hotlist and the fragrance allergen disclosure lists do different jobs, and mixing them up is how a filing ends up missing something.

The Hotlist is a restriction and prohibition list

The Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist tells you what you can't use at all, or what you can only use up to a certain concentration or under certain conditions. It covers a huge range of substances, not just fragrance components, everything from preservatives to colorants to specific solvents. Think of it as the gatekeeper: before anything else, does your formula contain something the Hotlist prohibits outright, or restricts to a ceiling you need to respect?

Some fragrance materials do appear on the Hotlist because of their own restriction profile, independent of whether they're also allergens. That's the overlap point people miss: a substance can show up in both places for two different reasons.

The allergen lists are a disclosure requirement, not a ban

List 1 and List 2 don't prohibit anything. They require you to name specific fragrance allergens on the label and the CNF once they're present above a defined threshold, so a consumer with a known sensitivity can see them and make their own choice. That's a fundamentally different mechanism than the Hotlist's prohibit-or-restrict approach.

The disclosure triggers are concentration-based and depend on product type:

  • Above 0.001% (10 ppm) in a leave-on product
  • Above 0.01% (100 ppm) in a rinse-off product

List 1 becomes mandatory on the CNF and label on April 12, 2026. List 2, an expanded set aligned with international lists, becomes mandatory on August 1, 2026. Common allergens on these lists include Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Eugenol, and Coumarin, and all of these occur naturally in a wide range of essential oils, not just synthetic fragrance compounds. A "natural" or essential-oil-based fragrance isn't exempt just because it isn't a lab-built fragrance compound.

Where the two checks actually meet

Here's the practical sequence for any fragrance ingredient:

  1. Check the Hotlist first. Is this substance prohibited, or is there a concentration ceiling you must not exceed?
  2. Separately, check whether it's on List 1 or List 2. If it is, calculate its real concentration in your finished product (accounting for the fact that fragrance oils are themselves blends of many components).
  3. If that concentration crosses the disclosure threshold for your product type (leave-on versus rinse-off), it needs to be named individually on the CNF and label, in addition to whatever generic "fragrance" or "parfum" listing you use.
Question Which list answers it What it tells you
Can I use this substance at all? Hotlist Prohibited, restricted to a ceiling, or unrestricted
Do I need to name it individually? List 1 / List 2 Disclosure required above 0.001% leave-on or 0.01% rinse-off
Is it both restricted and an allergen? Both, checked separately Respect the Hotlist ceiling, and disclose if above the allergen threshold

Why essential oil users get caught off guard

If you make soap or lotion with a blend of essential oils, you may have never thought of your product as containing "fragrance allergens" in the synthetic-perfume sense. But lavender, citrus oils, and many others are naturally rich in linalool, limonene, or geraniol. Once List 1 becomes mandatory in April 2026, the natural origin of the allergen doesn't exempt it from disclosure if the concentration crosses the threshold. This is the single most common surprise for small-batch soap and skincare makers who assumed allergen rules were about synthetic fragrance houses.

The practical fix

Get the allergen profile from your fragrance or essential oil supplier now, not in March 2026. Ask specifically for the percentage of each List 1 and List 2 allergen present in the oil or blend, then calculate the real concentration at your use level the same way you'd expand any other blend.

Cosmetic Comply screens every ingredient against the Hotlist and flags fragrance allergens against the disclosure thresholds in the same pass, so you can see both the restriction check and the disclosure requirement for a given fragrance ingredient without running two separate lookups by hand.

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