United States (MoCRA)

How Fragrance Allergen Rules Change Your Ingredient List

What your ingredient list looks like before and after allergen disclosure breaks a single fragrance line into named components.

The Compliance Desk4 min read

Right now, a lot of ingredient lists have one tidy line near the end: Parfum, or Fragrance, sitting there like a black box. Whatever's actually in it, whoever supplied it, that single word has done the job for years. Allergen disclosure rules are starting to crack that box open, and it's worth seeing exactly what changes before it happens to your label rather than after.

Before: the single-line fragrance world

A typical ingredient list today might read something like:

Aqua, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol

That "Parfum" line could be hiding forty compounds. Under most current rules, you're not required to break it down unless specific allergen thresholds are crossed, and many formulators haven't had to think hard about what's actually inside their fragrance supplier's blend, beyond trusting the safety data sheet.

After: named allergens sitting outside the fragrance line

Once allergen disclosure applies, if any constituent of that fragrance blend crosses the relevant threshold, it gets pulled out and listed by its own INCI name, separately from "Parfum." The same product's list might now read:

Aqua, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Parfum, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol

Nothing about the formula changed. What changed is what the label has to say about it. This is the part that surprises people the most, they assume disclosure means reformulating, when usually it just means relabeling accurately.

Where the thresholds come from, using Canada as the working example

Canada's rollout is a useful concrete case because it has real dates attached. List 1, the original fragrance allergen set, becomes mandatory on the Cosmetic Notification Form and the label on April 12, 2026. List 2, an expanded set aligned with international lists, follows on August 1, 2026. Disclosure triggers when a listed allergen is present above 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products or above 0.01% (100 ppm) in rinse-off products. Below that, it can still sit inside the generic fragrance line.

Common allergens that show up across mainstream fragrance blends and essential oils include:

Allergen INCI name as it appears on label Occurs naturally in
Limonene Limonene Citrus oils
Linalool Linalool Lavender, many florals
Citronellol Citronellol Rose, geranium
Geraniol Geraniol Rose, palmarosa
Eugenol Eugenol Clove, cinnamon
Coumarin Coumarin Tonka bean, some lavender

Getting the actual composition from your supplier

You cannot disclose what you don't know is in there. If you buy a fragrance oil or essential oil blend from a supplier, ask for the allergen declaration or the full composition breakdown, not just the general safety data sheet summary. Section 3 of a proper SDS lists composition, and a good fragrance house will have an allergen statement ready, because this isn't a new concept globally, it's been part of EU practice for years and Canada is bringing its own version online with these two 2026 dates.

Doing the math on a supplier blend

If your fragrance supplier tells you their blend is 2% linalool and you use that blend at 1% in your leave-on lotion, the real concentration of linalool in your finished product is 0.02 (percent within blend) times 0.01 (use level), which works out to 0.0002%, or 2 ppm. That's under the leave-on threshold of 10 ppm, so it might stay folded into the fragrance line. Change the use level to 5% and you'd cross into disclosure territory. This kind of multiplication is exactly the calculation to run for every allergen constituent before you assume you're in the clear.

What to actually do before the deadlines land

Go through every product using a fragrance blend or essential oil, get the real allergen breakdown from the supplier, and calculate actual ppm at your specific use level, not the oil's raw percentage. Flag anything crossing a threshold and plan to update both your label artwork and your notification filing ahead of the relevant date. This is the kind of ingredient math that's easy to get wrong by hand across a full product line, which is part of why Cosmetic Comply builds the concentration math and Hotlist screening directly into the filing workflow, so the allergen line-items come out right the first time instead of after a label reprint.

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