Prohibited & Restricted

Matching a CAS Number to a Hotlist Entry Correctly

Trade names and INCI names can both be ambiguous, which is why checking a Hotlist entry by CAS number is the more reliable way to confirm a match.

Cosmetic Comply Team4 min read

Someone once cross-checked a fragrance component against the Hotlist by its trade name, found nothing, and moved on satisfied. The substance was actually restricted, listed under an INCI name that bore no resemblance to what the supplier called it. That gap, between what a bottle is called and what it actually contains, is exactly why the CAS number exists, and why it's worth learning to use it as your primary check rather than an afterthought.

Why trade names and even INCI names aren't always enough

A trade name is marketing. It's whatever the supplier decided to call their product, and it never appears on a regulatory filing because it tells you nothing standardized about the chemistry inside. That part is well understood by most makers.

What's less obvious is that even INCI names, the standardized naming system that Hotlist entries are generally organized around, can have their own wrinkles. Some substances have more than one CAS number associated with them, depending on manufacturing process or slight structural variants. Some ingredients, particularly botanical extracts, have no CAS number at all, because they're complex natural mixtures rather than a single defined chemical entity. That means an INCI name alone doesn't always pin down a substance with total precision, and a CAS number, when one exists, is the more exact identifier to lean on.

What a CAS number actually is

The Chemical Abstracts Service registry number is a unique identifier assigned to a specific chemical substance. It's not tied to marketing, not tied to a particular supplier, and not language-dependent the way an INCI name description sometimes reads. Two suppliers in two different countries selling what's chemically the same substance under different trade names should, in principle, point to the same CAS number if you trace it back far enough.

That consistency is what makes it useful for Hotlist checking. Instead of asking "does this trade name match", the more precise question is "does this CAS number match a Hotlist entry", and that question has a cleaner yes-or-no answer, assuming the substance in question has a CAS number at all.

A practical matching workflow

  1. Get the CAS number from your supplier's documentation. This usually lives in the safety data sheet, specifically section 3, which covers composition. If your supplier hasn't provided an SDS, that's worth asking for regardless of Hotlist checking, since a proper SDS has 16 sections and section 3 is exactly where this identification data belongs.
  2. Confirm the INCI name independently. Don't rely solely on the supplier's stated INCI name, cross-reference it against the CAS number where possible, since this is where mismatches surface.
  3. Search the Hotlist by CAS number, not just by name. If the substance has a CAS number, this is the more reliable match than searching by INCI name text, which can have formatting variations or near-duplicate entries.
  4. Note when no CAS number exists. Some botanical extracts genuinely don't have one. In that case, the INCI name itself, matched carefully, becomes your primary reference, and it's worth extra care since you've lost the more precise cross-check.
  5. Watch for substances with multiple CAS numbers. If a Hotlist entry lists a substance under one CAS number but your supplier's SDS shows a slightly different one for what seems like the same material, don't assume they don't match, this is a case worth double-checking rather than dismissing.

Where this shows up with supplier blends

Blends complicate this further, because a supplier blend expands into multiple components, each with potentially its own CAS number, and each contributing its own real concentration to your finished product once you multiply the component percentage by the blend's use level. If one component of a blend has a CAS number that matches a restricted Hotlist entry, that match doesn't disappear just because the blend's trade name looks unrelated to anything concerning.

Identifier type Reliability for Hotlist matching Common pitfall
Trade name Low Marketing name, never appears on a filing, no standardized meaning
INCI name Moderate to high Generally reliable, but formatting variants and near-duplicates exist
CAS number Highest, when available Some substances have multiple CAS numbers; some have none

The upshot for your own filings

If you've only ever checked ingredients by name, it's worth going back through your formula and pulling the CAS number for each component where one exists, directly from supplier SDS documents. It's a bit more legwork upfront, but it closes the gap where a trade name or a loosely matched INCI name lets something restricted slip through unnoticed.

This is the exact matching problem Cosmetic Comply's ingredient screening step is built to solve, it maps each ingredient to its INCI name and CAS number, expands supplier blends into their real components and percentages, and checks each one against the Hotlist with a confidence score before a human reviewer confirms the result, which takes the CAS-number discipline described here and applies it automatically rather than leaving it to a manual SDS search for every ingredient.

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