INCI Names & CAS Numbers

Naming Saponified Oils: Sodium Olivate and Its Cousins

The sodium-plus-oil INCI naming convention that replaces a raw oil's name once it has been turned into soap.

Cosmetic Comply Team4 min read

Olive oil goes into the pot as Olea Europaea Fruit Oil. It comes out of the mold as something else entirely on paper, Sodium Olivate, even though anyone who's made the soap knows exactly which oil went in. That naming shift trips people up constantly, and it's worth understanding why it happens and how to get it right on a filing.

Saponification changes the substance, so it changes the name

Saponification is a chemical reaction, not just a physical mixing. The oil (a triglyceride) reacts with an alkali, typically sodium hydroxide for bar soap or potassium hydroxide for liquid soap, and the fatty acids get converted into salts of fatty acids, which is what soap actually is at a molecular level. Since the resulting substance is chemically different from the raw oil that went in, INCI naming reflects that difference. You don't list the leftover oil name in your finished soap formula, because chemically, it isn't the oil anymore.

That's the whole logic behind names like Sodium Olivate. It tells you two things at once: sodium indicates it was saponified with sodium hydroxide, and olivate tells you the source oil was olive oil.

Common saponified oil names

Source oil Raw oil INCI (before saponification) Saponified INCI (sodium) Saponified INCI (potassium)
Olive oil Olea Europaea Fruit Oil Sodium Olivate Potassium Olivate
Coconut oil Cocos Nucifera Oil Sodium Cocoate Potassium Cocoate
Palm oil Elaeis Guineensis Oil Sodium Palmate Potassium Palmate
Castor oil Ricinus Communis Seed Oil Sodium Castorate Potassium Castorate
Shea butter Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Sodium Shea Butterate Potassium Shea Butterate

Notice the pattern: the alkali cation comes first (sodium or potassium), followed by the oil's root name plus an "-ate" ending. It's a fairly mechanical convention once you see a few examples side by side, but it's not something you can guess correctly every time, especially with less common oils or butters that have unusual root names.

Why this matters for your notification

If you're filing a Cosmetic Notification Form and you list "Olive Oil" as an ingredient in a cold process soap, that's simply inaccurate. The finished bar doesn't contain unreacted olive oil (assuming a properly cured, fully saponified bar), it contains sodium olivate along with residual glycerin (a natural byproduct of saponification) and whatever superfat, or unreacted oil intentionally left in the formula for skin conditioning, you built into the recipe.

This distinction matters for two practical reasons:

  • Accuracy on the CNF. Health Canada expects the ingredient list to reflect the finished product, not the ingredients that went into the pot before the chemical reaction happened.
  • Hotlist screening. The Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist screens ingredients by their actual identity. Screening "Olive Oil" when the real finished-product ingredient is "Sodium Olivate" isn't just a technicality, it's screening the wrong substance.

Superfat and unreacted oil still get listed separately

If your recipe intentionally uses excess oil that doesn't fully saponify (a common soapmaking technique for a milder, more moisturizing bar), that leftover oil is a genuinely separate ingredient in the finished product and should be listed under its raw oil INCI name, not folded into the saponified name. So a superfatted olive oil soap might list both Sodium Olivate and Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, reflecting the reacted portion and the deliberately unreacted portion as distinct ingredients.

CAS numbers get trickier here too

Saponified oil salts don't always have a single, tidy CAS number the way a pure, well-defined chemical does, since the underlying oil is itself a mixture of several fatty acids, and the resulting soap is a mixture of their salts. Some suppliers and reference databases assign CAS numbers to these substances anyway, but treat them as approximations of a genuinely complex mixture rather than a single precise identity, similar to how many botanical extracts don't have a clean CAS number at all.

Getting the conversion right without memorizing every root name

Nobody making soap wants to keep a mental dictionary of every saponified oil name and its alkali variant. This is one of the areas where automated INCI matching earns its keep: Cosmetic Comply takes your recipe as entered (the actual oils and alkali you used) and maps the finished-product ingredients to their correct saponified INCI names, carrying the right percentages through so your notification reflects what's actually in the bar, not what went into the pot.

If you're filing your first soap CNF, double check every oil in your recipe against its saponified name before you submit. It's a small naming convention, but it's exactly the kind of detail a reviewer checks first.

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