INCI Names & CAS Numbers

The 1 Percent Line and Why Order Stops Mattering Below It

Above 1 percent, ingredient order has to reflect concentration. Below it, the rule relaxes, and knowing exactly where that line falls in your formula matters.

Cosmetic Comply Team4 min read

Ever notice how an ingredient list starts out very obviously ordered, water first, then some big surfactant or emollient, then it hits a cluster near the bottom that looks almost randomly arranged? That's not sloppy label copy. That's the 1 percent rule doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

The rule in plain terms

Cosmetic ingredient lists are generally required to be presented in descending order of concentration for anything above 1%. The biggest contributor to your formula, usually water, sits at the top, and each ingredient after it should reflect a real step down in concentration, at least among everything sitting above that 1% threshold.

Once you cross below 1% concentration, that strict ordering requirement relaxes. Ingredients under 1% can be listed in any order relative to each other. That's why the tail end of an ingredient list, minor preservatives, fragrance components, tiny amounts of extract or colorant, often reads in a sequence that doesn't obviously correspond to which one is present in a slightly higher or lower amount.

Why the rule exists at all

The logic here is about giving consumers a genuinely useful sense of what they're mostly getting, without demanding a level of precision in labeling that doesn't add much practical value at very low concentrations. Knowing that Ingredient A sits at 0.3% and Ingredient B sits at 0.25% doesn't tell a consumer much that matters, but knowing the base of the formula is 70% water and 15% of a particular oil absolutely does. The 1% line is a reasonable place to draw that distinction.

Where the actual cutoff sits in your formula

This is where formulators sometimes get tripped up, not on understanding the rule, but on finding exactly where 1% falls once ingredients are listed in a real formula. It's not always obvious just by looking at a recipe, especially once supplier blends are involved.

Consider a simple lotion:

Ingredient (INCI) Concentration Above or below 1%?
Aqua 68% Above
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 12% Above
Glycerin 5% Above
Cetearyl Alcohol 4% Above
Emulsifying blend (see below) 3% Above (as a blend)
Phenoxyethanol 0.9% Below
Fragrance 0.7% Below
Panthenol 0.5% Below
Tocopherol 0.2% Below

Everything from Aqua down through the emulsifying blend needs to be in strict descending order. Phenoxyethanol through Tocopherol can be arranged in any sequence among themselves, since all four sit under 1%.

Supplier blends complicate where the line actually falls

Here's the part that catches people. If that "emulsifying blend" at 3% of your formula is itself a mixture, say it's 40% one emulsifier and 60% another, you need to expand it into its real components before you can correctly place each one in your ordering. Multiply the component share by the blend's use level: 3% times 0.40 gives you 1.2% for the first emulsifier, and 3% times 0.60 gives you 1.8% for the second. Both happen to still land above the 1% line in this example, but that won't always be true. A blend sitting at exactly 1% of your formula that splits into a 70/30 internal ratio produces one component at 0.7%, which drops below the threshold, and one at 0.3%, also below, even though the blend as a whole looked like it belonged above the line.

This is exactly why "list the blend at its trade name and use level" isn't sufficient for either your public ingredient list ordering or your regulatory filing. You have to do the expansion first, then determine where each real component falls relative to 1%, then order accordingly.

A practical way to check your own list

  1. List every ingredient in your formula by real INCI name, expanding any supplier blends into their components using the multiplication method above.
  2. Sort everything by true concentration, highest to lowest.
  3. Draw a line at 1%. Everything above must stay in that exact descending order on your label.
  4. Everything below the line can be arranged in whatever order works for your label design, though many brands still choose to keep a rough concentration order out of habit or clarity.

Keeping this consistent with your filing

The same expanded, true-concentration ingredient data that determines correct label ordering is also what belongs on your Cosmetic Notification Form, since Health Canada's filing wants ingredients listed by INCI name with concentration or a concentration range, not by supplier trade name. Cosmetic Comply does this expansion automatically: feed it your formula including supplier blends, and it carries the percentage math through to real components, which keeps your label ordering and your CNF filing pulling from the same accurate numbers instead of two separately maintained spreadsheets that can quietly drift apart.

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